The Coromandel Express!
Sunday, July 24, 2011 at 2:32PM
Riding the rails in India...
(Written July 1, 2011)
"Chennai wants the moon, Chennai wants the moon, high ho the cheerio, Chennai wants the moon.
The moon wants the sky, the moon wants the sky, high ho the cheerio, the moon wants the sky.
The sky wants the stars, the sky wants the stars...."
The voices of two little girls singing softly in the berth opposite us went on and on. ...the rhythm of the wheels on the track giving a strange yet steady beat as a counterpoint to their young voices. Our train sped through the moonlit night across the eastern plains of India. Outside the countryside slept. Inside... "good night," "night-night," "sleep well," "as-salaam alaikum!" ...the girls finally settled down to sleep, allowing the rest of us in the compartment to do likewise. It had been a long day, and even though the upper berth required me to carefully organize myself so as to fit, it was still a peaceful night's sleep on the whole.
We shared our compartment with a young Indian family who were traveling back home to Kolkata after visiting family in Chennai. The girls sat in their upper berth the next morning, playing some electronic games. The father spent a good bit of his time surfing the internet on his notebook computer, connecting via a mobile modem. Mother sat staring out the window, lost in her thoughts as she listened to music on her I-pod. Occasionally one of their phones would ring and the resulting conversation would ensue in a mixture of languages - English being the most predominate.
As the landscape outside the windows changed from rural to urban we passed an outdoor "laundromat," where clothes were being washed by hand and hung out to dry on long swooping lines. The mother took her earphones off and pointed out this "dhobi ghat" to her young daughters, explaining: "this is like the place that our girls take our clothes to have them washed."
Computers; I-pods; cell phones; ...and house-help that has the laundry done by hand! As we slowly came to a stop alongside one of the fifteen long, slender, platforms stretching out from the century old Howrah station in Kolkata, we were once again struck by the amazing juxtapositioning of old and new, modern and ancient, rich and poor that is India today. We said our goodbyes to the train and our fellow passengers, made our way through the quiet Sunday morning streets of Kolkata to our hotel, and early the next morning left India behind after a fantastic ten days of total immersion into this great country.
travel in
Vic's Path 









